As Michiganians we are fortunate to have many trail-running
opportunities throughout our mostly-rural state. Ranging from short park
loops and nature trails, to Nordic ski trails awaiting snow, to dedicated
hiking trails maintained by state and metro park staff ... all offer runners
a more-forgiving surface for their joints, changes in scenery and a less-
modern running experience than paved roads. Some state trail systems take this type of running to a whole different -
some would say a more-extreme - level. Trail running can transcend into
adventure running when a person chooses to take some risks.
Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park is such a place. Set in the
western Upper Peninsula near Silver City and the former copper-mining
town of White Pine, the Porkies offer miles and miles of secluded hiking
trails that are perfect for the hardy runner looking for a challenge.
While the western U.P. is crisscrossed by hundreds of miles of runnable
trail, most of these are former railroad grade, snowmobile trails and
logging roads. These wide trails with mostly-level footing are good for
general training and provide an attractive alternative to running the
roads in summer, but don't allow a runner to really "get away": there are
frequent road crossings and the trails often follow power lines or other
landmarks of technology.
For rough single-track through real back country, the Porkies are
Michigan's ultimate place to go, offering many routes of varying length
and difficulty with views that mostly don't exist any longer east of the
Mississippi.
Now the disclaimer. If one chooses to run the Porkies, it will be rough
and tough. This is not a place to go if ankle-turning rocks, tripping roots
and gnarly climbs and descents will be a problem.
Bridges may not exist for stream and river crossings. On many routes
the nearest road is two to three miles away, or farther. Going alone is not
an option in case the unfortunate should occur.
Warnings aside, these are the attributes that make the Porkies worth the
trip. With a few tips, the experience can be safe and extremely fun.
When to Go
What you encounter in the Porkies will vary greatly with the season.
Winter is prime time for snowshoeing and cross country skiing (42K
groomed through the ski area). For running it's not so hot, given the
snow the area receives. November runs in six inches of wet snow are
doable.
After the last of the snow melts in late spring, running opportunities
open up, but be prepared to deal with extensively-flooded trails. If trail
fever is strong after a long winter on the roads, go ahead and get out
during April and May, but expect five-pound shoes pretty early on in any
trek.
Memorial Day brings the unofficial start to summer and the infamous
"Run The Porkies" put on by Wakefield track coach Jim Engel.
Traditionally a group of about a dozen runners opens the trails by
running the 18-mile length of the Lake Superior Trail.
By late May there is usually a slightly-drier track, although long
stretches of water-covered trail are to be expected. Then comes the
notorious U.P. insect season. June is the peak of the perennial black-fly
epidemic, during which a Porkies run is probably inadvisable.
By mid-July the worst of the bug problem is over and running the muddy
trails becomes superb. The high season for hitting the trails lasts the rest
of the summer, and fall brings the famous rainbow of foliage to runners'
eyes.
Water
As experienced trail runners know, there are no fountains in the woods.
Plan to carry more water than usually necessary, especially in warm
weather.
As a guide, I usually carry 44 ounces in my Fuel Belt for a three- to four-
hour run and will go through that whole volume. There are abundant
flowing or lake water resources available on most routes, if carrying a
filter or chemical treatment is more desirable. See literature at the park
visitors center for proper filter specifications.
Ticks
In recent years the tick population seems to have shot up in the U.P.
During the latter half of the '90s I never picked up a tick running trails
here. Now it's rare I don't pick up ticks.
The rule is check early and often for the insects, especially below the
knees and under sock lines. A lot of times ticks appear to be a dark,
reddish glob of dirt. Make a check by feel, not just sight.
I've yet to have a tick attached that I couldn't simply pick off and throw,
but it is possible to have one with its head already sunk into your skin.
Be careful in this situation and seek medical attention if necessary.
Mileage
Plan on an extreme amount of extra time to complete trail runs in the
Porkies. It could be the trails' nature slows runners down, or it could be
the mileage shown on the map assumes flat terrain and does not
account for the ups and downs, but whatever the reason is, you won't set
many PRs here.
For middle-of-the-pack runners, an 18-mile trek can take between three
and five hours. Or more.
Trail Markings
It's important to constantly watch your footing on these trails, but be
mindful to look up and spot the trail markings every 100 yards or so
(more frequently in some cases). This is especially critical in the old-
growth portions of the forest, where the canopy has choked out most of
the ground cover.
Without greenery on the forest floor to contrast with the trail, everything
can start to look the same, most notably when fresh leaves fall in fall and
foot traffic is at a minimum.
Sample Running Routes
Lake Superior Trail - Point to point, egress via east Presque Isle
River Trail, map mileage: 18.1, approximate time: 3 to 3.5 hours (if your
long-run road pace is around 8 minutes/mile).
Course description: The Memorial Day "Run The Porkies" route. Start at
the Lake Superior Trailhead on M-107 just below Lake of the Clouds.
First 5 miles feature a rocky descent to the Lake Superior shoreline,
passing Lone Rock. The next 5 miles follow the lakeshore and
occasionally the trail heads out onto the secluded rock beach before
reaching the mouth of the Big Carp River, approximately the halfway
point.
Another mile-plus to the mouth of the Little Carp River (both rivers
normally have bridges) leads to a set of stairs that climb away from the
lake. Be sure to stay on the Lake Superior Trail after crossing the Little
Carp and climbing out of the valley - the Pinkerton Trail intersects here
and can be used as a 2-3 mile bail-out to South Boundary Road if
necessary.
After the Little Carp, the LST traverses the old-growth virgin forest the
park is famous for, crossing several streams running in the bottom of
deep ravines.
After Speaker's Cabin (another bail-out point), there are roughly 3 miles
left with a couple root scrambles to climb. Take a left on the East River
Trail when you reach the Presque Isle River to reach the vehicle you've
stashed on the South Boundary Road bridge over the river, or continue
on the LST across the suspension footbridge to the trailhead parking lot.
Big Carp-Lake Superior loop - Map mileage: 20 plus,
approximate time: 3.5 to 4 hours.
Course description: From the Lake of the Clouds scenic overlook
parking lot, head west on the Big Carp River Trail taking in awesome
bluff-top views for roughly the first 2 miles. Then descend to the river
over the next 3 or so miles through lush forest.
Crossing the river on a bridge, head right to stay on the Big Carp,
bypassing the Correction Line Trail. Following the river provides the
scenery here, continuing to descend to the Big Carp mouth.
A right turn will take you back up to M-107 following the eastern stretch
of the Lake Superior Trail, with a nice-sized climb up away from the lake.
Turn right on the road to return to Lake of The Clouds in about a mile,
with a final climb to contend with.
Big Carp-Correction Line-Mirror Lake-Government Peak Loop (and
variations) - Map mileage: 20.6, approximate time: 4 plus hours.
Course description: On the way up to the Lake Superior Trailhead and
Lake of the Clouds, the Government Peak Trailhead lies on the left of M-
107. This loop can begin from here or Lake of the Clouds.
Starting at the Government Peak Trailhead, take the Escarpment Trail
west to fully experience the valley containing Lake of the Clouds below.
There is a sharp ascent to begin this run.
Passing through the Lake of the Clouds Scenic Area and onto the Big
Carp River Trail will eventually lead to the intersection with the
Correction Line Trail just over the river. Take the Correction Line this
time to Mirror Lake, turning left past the cabins when reaching the lake.
To shorten the route, take a left on the North Mirror Lake Trail to return
to Lake of the Clouds with a sharp descent to the bottom of the large
lake, followed by a serious - very serious - climb to the Lake of the
Clouds parking area.
If you're up for the full loop, bypass the North Mirror Lake Trail to get on
the Government Peak Trail. After a couple miles, the Government Peak
summit marks the highest point in the park, more than 1,200 feet above
Lake Superior. Continue to follow the Government Peak Trail through
several intersections back to M-107.
Another shorter variation of the loop, for those looking for about 2.5 to 3
hours of running, is taking the North Mirror Lake Trail down from Lake of
the Clouds and finishing the loop by taking the Government Peak Trail.
All the loops present a new experience when you take them opposite
direction, and there are ways to add small and large amounts of
distance to most of them. For runners looking for more-moderate
distances, the east end of the park (Government Peak Trailhead, Union
Spring Trailhead) as well as the Summit Peak area - off South Boundary
Road - provide shorter loops and out-and-backs.
For general information on the park, see the official Web site at ="http://www.michigandnr.com/
parksandtrails/ParksandTrailsInfo.aspx?id=426.
The back-country trail map, with mileages noted, is available in PDF
format at http://www.michigandnr.com/
publications/pdfs/RecreationCamping/Porkies_bcmap.pdf. MR