Photo: WHAT GOES UP must come down. Michigan's Tracey Cohen, a Peace Corps volunteer in Namibia, descends Chapman's Peak during Two Oceans Marathon April 10.

Michigan Runner's Namibian correspondent, Peace Corps volunteer Tracey Cohen, files this report. CAPE TOWN, S.A. (4/10/04) - Since I started service in Namibia (southwest Africa), local residents have asked, "Have you been to Cape Town? You must see Cape Town!"

I'm a "running geek." Thus, when I learned about the Old Mutual Two Oceans Marathon in Cape Town, which is directly south of Namibia, I knew I must run it.

Two Oceans, billed as "The World's Most Beautiful Marathon," is more than that. It is 56 kilometers, 8.6 miles longer than a marathon, held on Easter Saturday each year.

What better way to experience Cape Town than run my first ultra there, raising funds in the process for Habitat for Humanity?

For those who might need additional incentive, the 56K offered more than R400,000 in prize money (R7 equals approximately $1) , with bonus vehicles and R25,000 worth of gold bars awarded for record- breaking times.

The top 10 men and women finishers won gold medals. Silver medals went to runners who finished in under 4 hours, bronze for under 6 hours, and blue to sub-7-hour finishers. The medals were big and beautiful, with the race course engraved on the back of them. Everyone finishing within the seven-hour time limit also received a track suit badge printed with the race course.

Race day was cool with light rain, perfect for running 56K. As with the Boston Marathon, runners had to meet qualifying standards and were assigned starting spots accordingly. In a race with more than 18,000 participants, positioning was important - especially since your race time began when the gun fired, not when you crossed the starting line.

The first few kilometers were congested. Then the pack spread out, letting us settle into our paces through quiet and charming neighborhoods.

The first part of the course was relatively flat, with a beautiful view of False Bay. Support was plentiful, with aid stations every 2K offering sachets (or bags) of water, Coke, Powerade and chocolate. Medical aid stations were abundant from 15K through the finish.

At about 26K, we began climbing towards "Chappies," or Chapman's Peak. The ascent was deceiving, peppered with flat spots and even downhills before its final climb to the summit at at 33K. The Atlantic Ocean view was magnificent. Crowds and cheers reached their peak here too.

After a nice downhill, the racing began in earnest at 43K with an incredibly-steep 3K climb up Constantia Nek. The course was mostly downhill from there.

The rain turned our finish, at the University of Cape Town's sports field, to a river of mud. No matter: cheering crowds and abundant food, music and support made up for the dirt, and then some.

There was more to Two Oceans than "just" the ultra. The four-day race expo offered amazing bargains. Friday, April 9, fun included a 2.5K shuffle, 5K and 8K fun runs, and a 56K for Seventh-Day Adventists, whose faith doesn't allow them to run on Saturdays.

Saturday's options included a half-marathon (13.1 miles, the "real" distance) along with the ultra. For runners who celebrate Passover, kosher snacks and matzo sandwiches were available with other post- race refreshments.

Runners came from 50 different countries. South African Marco Mambo won the men's 56K in 3:07:41, while Russian Yelena Nurgalieva was women's champion in 3:37:51. South Africans Elijah Mutandiro (1:04:02) and Ronel Thomas (1:16:46) were half-marathon champs.

I ran the 56K in a wicked time of 5:49:54, but was happy to receive my bronze medal all the same.

Up for an adventure? Mark your calendar for the 36th running of the The World's Most Beautiful 'Marathon' on March 26, 2005. For more information, visit www.twooceansmarathon.org.za.

To learn more about Peace Corps efforts in Namibia, visit www.usembassy.namib.com/ pcorps/peace.htm. MR