LEELANAU PENINSULA (9/17/05) - There has never been a better day in northern Michigan. Not when there were salty seas and the coral was a living thing millions of years away from turning into Petoskey stones sought by tourists on the beach.

Not then and not in recent times, either. There may have days as nice, or nearly as nice, but never better.

There we were, a record field of 800 or so runners and walkers standing on the crest of the peninsula at Ciccone Vineyards. There wasn't a hint of humidity in the air. The sky was nearly cobalt. To the right, Traverse Bay was flat as a mirror. To the left, down in the valley, fog had gathered as high as the tree tops, so thick and white and surreal, people were asking, "What is that?"

Everywhere around us - the heat of summer had hurried the season along by a week or two - clusters of grapes were so thick and bulging with juice it seemed they'd have to burst before you finished looking.

The sixth annual Harvest Stompede was about to begin, with its seven miles of severe ups and downs and sights to match the start, through the vineyards at Mawby's, through grassy pastures, through deep woods, up and down the rows of grapes at Blackstar Farms and then up the longest, sandiest, thigh-busting incline this side of the Mackinac Bridge. Or, for those looking for a bit less challenge, 3.1 miles of almost-as- tough, almost-as-scenic terrain.

On a day like this, on courses like this, it's not just the winners who win. The day and sights had everyone smiling at the finish line. None more so than Teresa Kelly. But her smiles and tears of joy had nothing to do with the day, or the place, or even winning her 55-59 age group in the 5K in 31:20.

Her husband, Robert, had finished second in the same age group for the men in 26:29. If the time seems pedestrian, consider: In April, Robert was diagnosed with glioblastoma multiform, the worst kind of brain cancer you can get. He had immediate surgery, which got about 80 percent of his fast-growing tumor, and since then has been on chemo and radiation.

On this one morning, at last, Robert was healthy again. And doing what no one would have thought possible five months earlier: running and kicking butt.

Thomas Kenny, 33, of Traverse City, won the 7-miler. He'd finished second before, and last year was fifth with a faster time. This year he ran alone from the mile on, and even survived side stitches in miles four and five.

Kenny's 45:37 was good for a 73-second margin over one of the state's aging phenoms, Dennis Grantz, a gray-haired, pony-tailed dude of 56 who belied his looks by finishing second overall. Another amazing oldster was Paul Deladurantaye, the long-time Downriver road-race ace who finished fifth overall in 48:48 at age 59.

Jennifer Ziegler, 25, led the women and finished 17th overall in 52:38, 65 seconds ahead of Karen Kirt, 38. Amy Ranger claimed third in 54:24. Jane Kowiaski, 51, of Interlochen, led the female masters in 55:19. "The race gets better and better and I'm getting better and better, too," she joked.

In the 5K it was more of the same, except faster, for Ken Flannery. The Willamsburg resident won it for the second year in a row, trimming more than a minute off his time with a 19:55 at age 45. It was his third 5K win overall. Brian Beckwith, 25, was second in 21:23, with Molina Armando, 23, third in 21:35.

"It's called being 10 pounds lighter," Flannery joked. "I told my wife I was going for a minute faster, and I want some more time off next year." His son, Skyler, 14, won his division in 27:20.

Amber Crenshaw, 27, led the women and was seventh overall in 23 flat, with Corey Elizabeth, 27, next in 23:55 and Sharon Bade, 42, the top master and third woman in 24:11.

For many the weekend had just begun. Among entry options was a special wine-tasting at 12 participating vineyards on the peninsula Saturday and Sunday, complete with a food selection paired to select wines at each location. Once you had the select wine, there was nothing to stop you from tasting the others they had on offer.

All in all, a weekend to remember. MR